Climbing Mt. Fuji

I wanted to start this series of blog posts about my trip to Japan with the highlight. The "climb"

It was on a trip last March with the kids that the idea of climbing Mt. fuji came to me. At this time, the path was still full of snow and as we were listening to the presentation, it was said that the mountain was open to climbing (safely) ONLY 2 months during summer of every year.

A light bulb hit me..... why don"t we try to climb it? (yeah... I thought it was easy)

I was planning on doing a training program before the climb.. but I got busy with work and everything else that I barely got any training in... (BIG MISTAKE)

I was even talking to a Japanese friend about climbing and he was concerned about me not training at all (which made me even more concerned for myself... but by then it was too late to do anything about it)

It was a few months back that by chance (serendipity.. I think) that while I was browsing through information on Mt. Fuji, an ad came on for guided tours by a local bus company WILLER. You can choose only a guided tour for 17,000 Yen (6,290 pesos/$135) or tour with rental gear 27,000 yen (10,000 pesos/$215). I chose the one with rental gear since I really didn't own any climbing gear.

I think it was when my husband said yes to accompanying me that this brilliant plan of mine really took shape. No guts, No glory!

The climbing gear included were: walking sticks, hiking boots, socks, windbreaker and pants, backpack, headlight, and ankle protection (for mud and dust).

The hike itself was a two day affair. The tour would cover first day dinner and 2nd day breakfast.

Here was our schedule:

FIRST DAY:

The bus company would give clear instructions on how to get to the bus terminal  (call time 7:10am and 7:30 departure). The terminal is located in SHINJUKU area of Tokyo, but I would suggest you leave your hotel early (we left the bulk of our luggage at the hotel and brought only cellphone and money since we rented gear). The way to find the bus terminal is a good 15 min walk from the train station. The bus company gave clear instructions on how to walk through the train to get to the terminal via email but I forgot to look at it.

We did get to check in on time though and got our gear. We checked the sizes for the shoes and pants and they are happy to replace them if they don't fit (I took a medium set... but the pants were a it tight so I had them replaced with large..... what can I say??? I have a booty!!!)

10:30am- we arrive at FUJI SUBARU 5TH STATION- we quickly go up to the 3rd floor to change into our climbing gear (add some under shirts, wear the hiking boots). We even had to figure out how to put money in one of the rental lockers so we could leave our other clothes and shoes. (we did not want extra weight going up)-- tip: you have to open the locker before you put in the coins (cost: 300yen)

subaru 5th station. everyone is getting ready

We quickly ate lunch (that station had our worse lunch experience in japan) so we can catch the meet up with our guide at 11:15. the guide already gave safety reminders on the bus as we were traveling from Tokyo to the 5th station regarding altitude sickness (what to do, how to avoid it), how NOT to rush climbing since it is after all 3776m climb

The walk from the 5th satin to the Mt. Fuji safety station was pleasant enough, some inclines, some rocks. I was feeling... YEAH, this is fun! picture here, picture there and even a video!

smiling.. still

by the end.of the trip. i was looking for this horse!!!

The video was taken at the 6th station.. where the Safety guidance center is and where most people start the REAL climb. (2,390M)

This is when I realized.... HOLY CRAP.

it says... 3.6km till summit

... look at those rocks!!!!! that is what you call.... MOUNTAIN CLIMBING

fortunately, it wasn't all like this, there were also steep gravel paths (I swear there were no plain paths. it all incline until you reach the rest huts that are in between the stations.) the walking sticks were a great help in hoisting ourselves up.

POINTERS:
--- we were carrying 2 liters of water each in our backpacks since there is no water in the mountain. You can buy water - which gets more expensive as you climb up. (normal 160 yen  in the mountain: 300 yen... 500yen)
--- you need to cover ALL surfaces with sunblock. Our ears got sunburned (the nape of the neck and the base on the neck too)
--- sunglasses and hats are a must!! the weather during summer even at 2500m is still warm and when you give effort, you really sweat. I was dripping loads by the time I got to the 7th station. (more on that later)

It was a few zigzags up before you reach the first hut - and by the time I reach the 7th station, I was already feeling dizzy. (effects of altitude sickness). I felt like I was going to throw up (which I did after the 7th station). I wasn't taking any more pictures (my feet were like lead)I was doing the deep breathing exercises as suggested  by our guide. I could see clouds on the side of the path which made me even dizzier. (it was like vertigo)... all I could think about was one step in front of the other and I'll be able to reach the hut....

couldn't look up. too dizzy

clouds.. clouds...

my husband calls it.. the "grandma walk"

too dizzy. had to lean on the sign. goo thing there was my husband to take pictures

There are : 2 huts before the 7th station (one member of our group , a thai, gave up upon reaching the 7th station) 4 huts before the 8th station, and 3 huts before the tomoe-kan hut (where we will overnight). It was a struggle to say the least. AGONY is a good word. I reached the hut at about 6:30 in the evening. I tell you. it took a lot out of me.

I was an EXPERIENCE. I was talking to myself the whole time... saying... it will all be ok.. you can make it. only a few more feet... (then realizing I still had 2 more huts to pass to reach the final hut)... WAAAA....
I was trying to motivate myself saying.. it's like giving birth... the pain will go away anyyyyy moment now....

My heart was  thumping so hard every few steps that I had to stop and take  breather. It was like sprinting (if you ever tried it) and then your heart is thumping near your throat.

this is path we took. the solid yellow is the ascent. the dashed yellow is the descent

7pm- I had no appetite (I guess I was too tired and of course had altitude sickness). Took a picture though.

Sleeping arrangements were like in a ryokan. where you sleep on mats. But the space is like very very small. (sardine-like)... My husband had a hard time sleeping with two big american women beside him.. LOL.

Went to sleep with serious doubts if I would attempt the summit at 1:40am.

Day 2:

With much convincing from fellow climbers, I put on my headlamp and walked towards the trail. The Tomoe kan was abuzz with activity and even at an early hour, I could see the sea of people heading for the summit (a trail of headlamps)-- no picture here.. still woozy

I really tried to make it to the top... but by a certain level, I was feeling nauseous again. The guide decided it was in my best interest to go back down to the rest hut. But then, it was too dark to see the descending path clearly. ( the ascending trail is different from the descending trail ) I trudged on and managed to reach the plateau before the summit. (some people were saying that I could have hiked more and reached the summit... but I TELL YOU, at that point, I was physically done and as per my husband, the last leg was especially hard and was almost a vertical rock climb to the summit.

I told my husband... "leave me here.. I can manage.." . I knew HE could make the summit (he was a marathoner after all). It was like a scene in the movie. I could tell he was torn. hahaha

He finally went on leaving me there.... (at some point, I was scared I may not be able to find the descending route from where I was sitting.) Luckly, I figured it out. ( a little bit of thoughts that I might get lost in the mountain and never be found flashed through my head)

The temperature was freezing at the top. The wind was blowing too and I was shivering while waiting for the sunrise. I couldn't wait for it to get light enough so I could go back down.
sunrise was at 4:45am. Trekked back to then hut a few minutes after and got a few minutes of rest.

victory picture!!!

last picture before we trek down

I still had no appetite for breakfast (cold salty salmon and rice) and started to trek back down. the trek back down was on purely gravel and ash. It was slippery and hard on the knees. It was about 3 hours to reach the 5th station. My ankles were hurting by the time I reached the 6th station and I still had to trek about 2km to reach the bus. (where are the horses?)

What really amazed me were the senior citizen and japanese children doing the climb! Really something.

I was glad I got to do it... would I do it again? (NOPE). I underestimated the height of the mountain (3776m) and did not train enough for it. (I could have used more lung power)

The guides were pretty great. They were there all the way guiding us. although I hated it when they kept saying.. keep moving when all I wanted to do was stop and rest! I just felt really OLD and WORN!!!

NOTES:
---I wore a uniglo heatech under shirt and it kept me warm until tomoe kan (it was fleece coat level)
--- if you don't want to bring extra jackets, you can rent one at the tomoe kan (jackets, gloves and warmer pants) I think it was 500 yen per pc.
--- oxygen can be bought in cans at the huts
--- you can mail postcards at the top with a special postmark from Mt. Fuji. (you can actually mail them at the summit where there is a postbox.. but I didn't get to that part). I had the people at the tomoe kan mail it for me
-- sunblock, sunblock, sunblock
-- drink water
-- there are waling sticks for sale and each hut can stamp on your stick (300yen/ stamp)so by the end of your trip, your stick would be full of stamps. But I didn't want the extra baggage and then if I got all the stamps, it would have been about 4000 yen total. (eek)
--- summer is the best time to go (late june - early sept). You bring back down all the plastic bottles and trash you accumulate.
--- there are toilets in the rest huts. but they require 200 yen tip. No toothbrush facilities (you either use your drinking water or none). --- there is no water in the mountain.
--- bring lots of spare change (100 yen coins or 1000 bill)... for the toilets, for the storage lockers, drinks,


If you plan to do this... hope the tips help... and for the love of GOD.. go train!!!!

here is video of a you tuber who climbed click here

Climbing a mountain (part 3) -- reaching the top

MT Sinai, the camel station (AKA: base camp 2)

I could see the lights and knew we had reached the camel station. At the cafeteria, I was reunited with my fellow travellers. My husband was already slurping on a hot bowl of instant noodles. It was amazing that they had instant noodles at 6000 feet. There were more people behind me looking for those noodles and my husband informed me that it was the last one. (they sold out on  noodles.- - I guess they hadn't figured that 90 freezing cold asians were going to climb the mountain that day)

I took a few minutes waiting for the rest of the group to arrive. (we had to complete our group before we were allowed to climb the rest of the way up)

They informed us that about 30 of us intended to proceed the rest of the way. The other opted to stay at the camel station. It was another 30 minutes climb to the very top for us to wait for the sunrise.

picture with the camels

camel parking lot

a beduin smoking a pipe at the camel station (photo by my friend)

resting my head....

in 20 minutes, we started climbing. it was about 4:30 am. With my flashlight, I carefully climbed the narrow steps. It was rocky and we had to be careful in stepping, some of the stones were quite loose. There were another group who were climbing also and at time, we had to let the faster climbers pass. some of my male friends complained they had to go pee... and found some rocky outcrop to do their business (good thing it was dark, and I could only HEAR them and not SEE them.... hahaha)

The air was quite thin at this point and we got winded very easily. I tried to regulate my breathing too but eventually had to take some rest stops to catch my breath. You can't really see how much further you have to go to reach the top since it was pitch dark. you just had to prod on... I kept thinking.... how far? are we there yet???

You can't really see much, maybe only two feet in front of you. when you look up, you try to gauge the length you still have to climb by the number of flashlight you still see. Eventually we reach the top. YES. it was soo fulfilling to be able to climb. Maybe something you do once in a lifetime.

me taking pictures

 The sun began to rise and everyone had their cameras ready. The beduins were shouting at everyone to be ready to shoot.

(The time frame was short-- it was sunrise after all and you only get 2 minutes for everything to happen)

i'm on the top of the wooorrrrlllld.....

Sinai at sunrise

me and a friend... trying to balance on a very scary rock

nice picture- I think

grand view of it all.

The whole impact of the climb will hit you when you climb down... (photos by friends)

traffic going down

camel station in the morning

the steps up... I climbed THAT????

the beduin mall... hahaha

looking down at how far we need to walk down

steep!!!! climbing down..

Suffice it to say.... all of us really FELT it the next day... some had to have canes!!!

climbing a mountian (part 2)

The beduin said nothing as he led the camel up the path. Around me, I could barely distinguish the outline of the mountain. I hear the other camels carrying our group. I leaned over and touched the hide of the camel, wondering how it would feel like. His skin/ fur was similar to a horse.

"Who's there?" I shout out as I sensed a camel coming up from my rear. I felt uneasy being alone in the darkness and I longed for conversation. We were told not to use our flashlights as these might blind the camels so it was impossible to tell who was beside you. 

"It's me!" a girl shouted.

I could hardly see who this "me" is, considering that we were about 90 people in the group,  so I asked, "Who is ME?"

"Shawn"

I smiled. It was one of the younger girls in our group. In front of me, another girl shouted "Hey, Imelda. It's me Yolly"

My camel was getting grumpy. The beduin who was guiding me was having a hard time commanding it to move forward. Every once in awhile, it would try to make a U turn and go back down from the path we had come from.

I chatted up some of the people beside me. It was dark and as we learned, a very long ways up. The saddle had a handle in front and at the back, which made riding a bit rough.  I gripped them both as the camel rocked me back and forth trying to sway with the rocking motion of the camel. I figured it would make it less hard on my bum.  I was wondering how long this would take. (guessing the boys would have a hard time in this kind of seat)

I squinted and tried to make out the path we were going. I could make out shadows of the side of the path as we slowly ascended up. I look up and see the silhouette of the camels of the other who were in front. To the left of us was the side of the path, the ravine side. In the dark, you can't really SEE anything but you can SENSE that there is a ravine there somewhere especially when your camel decides that he want to walk on the LEFT side most of the time!

By mid way, the Bedouin was REALLY making an effort to control the stubborn camel. Every one in awhile, it would bump another camel beside me, squishing me feet in between that I had to shout "oww!!" By this time, the beduin gives me a stick and gestures me to whip the camel on the backside. Really???

I make a light handed tap on the camel, shouting "Yala, habibi!!" like what I heard out tour guide shout when he is calling us. My friends laugh.

The beduin gestures "more!" I feel guilty as I give a better tap--(secretly, I feel excited at being able to "guide" the camel) I ended up shouting louder rather than tapping harder. The others in the bottom of the pack instantly recognizes my voice. (truth to tell, my voice is like a child's- quite thin and shrill)

"Imelda!!!!!!" they shout from the bottom

I shout back the hello's and laugh. This is getting to be fun after all.

Midway, another beduin took over my camel and it seemed the camel is more agreeable to him (I am guessing the first one was not the original owner) and I had no problems with my ride after that. It was a long ride and I had packed some small chocolates with me (for energy) and some dried dates. I rummaged through my bag and give my beduin a pack of dried apricots.

He looks at it and asks "good?"

"yeah, it's nice!!" I tell him.

He seems skeptical. I try to tell him "apricot" but I could not determine if he understood. Finally he eats it and exclaims, "good!". He reaches out his hand to me again, "chocolate!"

Errr… ok… not even a thank you??

The tour guide warned us that the beduins would be persistent in asking for anything you have on. Particularly asking for chocolates, your bag, your pen or whatever they think they can mooch/ask from you. It is not impolite to tell them that you need or still want to keep you things. They would usually brush it off and try on some other poor guy.

Next: reaching the top

Climbing a mountain (part 1)

Sinai Peninsula:

12:30am and my phone alarm clock goes off. I can’t believe I am waking up at this hour.  It was a mere 4 hours ago that we trudged into this hotel in the middle of the sinai peninsula after a long bus ride from the border crossing at Eilat (Israel) to Egypt. The hotel claimed to be 4 stars. The only thing 4 star about it was the expansive swimming pool. (w/c we will never have a chance to try). The hotel room itself was bare. The key lock (yes, the one where you turn it -old style) looked like it had been repaired from being previously kicked in. The furnishings were worn down. They said it was the best hotel in that area. 

Rubbing my eyes, I see my husband is already awake too. I quickly go to the bathroom to brush my teeth, skipping taking a shower all together. I had thought about taking a shower the night before but scouring the hotel room, there was no hair dryer in sight. The morning would be no different. I would not dare go out and climb a mountain with wet hair. (they say it’s near 2C when you go up). By 5 minutes to 1, we were already on the bus. They also warned us to go to the bathroom before we climb as it IS a mountain after all and WC’s are not available (guys are so lucky they can GO anywhere).

Everything was pitch dark as we drove from the hotel to the foot of Mt sinai. The only lights were the lampposts from the road leading to the hotel. After 5 minutes, even they were not visible. I wondered how the bus driver would know where to go- experience, I guess. Another 5 minutes and I could see some shops. It was the bus parking lot at the foot of the mountain. Our guide hustled us out and directed us to walk to the camel station. I looked around and saw a WC SIGN. Suddenly (or maybe psychologically) I had the urge to pee. But the group was moving fast going forward like a wave. I dismissed the urge and prayed it was just nerves. I would not be seeing another WC for the next 4 hours.  (eeek)

I could not determine the length of the walk since we only had flashlights to light our way. I kept reminding myself to stay with the group and not trip on the rocky road or step on camel poop. When they told us it was dark, it was REALLY dark. I have never been out in such darkness before. Living in the city all my life, darkness meant you had some kind of light coming from somewhere all the time. This place had NO LIGHT.

“nguaaaaa”

I could hear the grunting of the camels. We were nearing the camel station where we were going to ride camels to go up. (cost $20-) there were about 90 of us and we were asked to line up. We would be given numbers and a beduin guide. I lined up, hardly seeing anything. I clutched the small flashlight I brought along. “36! Name?” the guide asked. (they need to check eveeryone is accounted for). “Imelda” I said, looking out in front of me trying to see determine how far the path leads. I could see some silouettes of camels lying on the side of the path. The beduin headman shouted something unintelligible to someone and another beduin suddenly grabbed my hand and pulled me. He said nothing and walked at such a fast pace, I was afraid I would trip. IMaybe he had night vision eyes but I was having a hard time determining where we were walking. I had thought they would let us ride the first camel available but he led me farther down the path. I could hear several camels and wondered which one he would ask me to ride. (I think I passed 10 camels before we stopped). By this time, all I could hear were grunting camels and several people shouting as the camels rose to their feet. I had no idea where my husband was.

This is my camel, and I don't know his name. I gripped the handles as the camel rose to it's feet in a wobbly front first and then back kind of rise. (whoa mama!) .... Now, we ascend 7000 feet!

(to be continued)